Wintermark costumes

Look and Feel

"Civilian is another word for coward in the Wintermark" - women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armor and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting Kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production" - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed" - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armor to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armor.

"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers" - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths. Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later. Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee. The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.

Suaq

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may chose to wear linen or canvas versions. Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Ice walkers may keep them plain for hunting and scouting but at home most chose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Shamans may chose to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kalavessi mystics.

Kavalessi

The clothing of the Kavalessi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flasher of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones. Head dresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kavella and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility (I made this up). These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animals strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favor strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

Steinr

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as equally lavish as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the dettails: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.

Similar nations

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbors in the Marches: with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's ancestral ties to Varushka (is this true? I thought i read it somewhere) can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark theses are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but winter folk favor hoods. Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armor is something the WinterFolk share with the Navarri. Their well used leather armor is often similar. Kavalessi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarri blood Mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in evoking animal spirits

Research

Historical inspiration: Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time. Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the WinterFolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka. Iron age costume is also appropriate - particularly for the Kavalessi. Plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era and should not be worn.

Lord of the Rings Rohirrim

The armor of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armor, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armor follows similar lines and is also appropriate. Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker. Caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.

(i have pictures for here)

Game of Thrones

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters and inspiration for the feel of the wintermark can be taken from the night's watch and Starks.

(i have pictures for here)

King Arthur 2004

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armor looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armor has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.

(i have pictures for here)

Beowulf and Grendel 2005

(I need to write something but I havnt seen it yet)

Jade warrior

(I havnt seen this one yet either)

Skyrim

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with norse inspiration. In particular the norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.

(I have pictures for here too)

In detail

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twils and simple plaid will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan. For a more comprehensive guide see here

(Link to Lauren's fabric guide)

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

Specifics

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate dark ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. I have provided basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.

Picture 0 here, pattern A, pattern B

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee. The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic:

Link to tutorial here

Wintermark woman in long tunic dress

picture 1 here

This uses a long sleeved, long length version of tunic A and a short, mid-sleeved version over the top. This is un-taylored and can be pulled in at the waist with a belt. Use wider gores (trianges at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts. The neckline here is triangular but an be varied.

Wintermark Man and woman

pictures 2 and 3here photo here

This shows two A tunics with a slightly longer tunic underneath. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim. The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

Wintermark male variations - utility and high status

picture 4 picture 5 pattern c and photo

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armor. For a higher status male character you can make tunics longer and more ornate.

Asymmetric hems

picture 6 picture 7 picture 8 patterd D

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress

picture 9 pattern E pattern F, photos movie still

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here. A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset.

Wealthy woman's Kirtle

Picture 10, pattern G pattern H movie still

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

Hats and outerwear

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).

picture here pattern here photo here

This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

pictures here pattern here photo here

Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

pictures here pattern here photo here

Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

Pictures here pattern here photo here

Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kavalessi look.

Bibliography and Resources

Patterns

http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCalls kirtle pattern

Historical patterns http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html

http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern

Child dress pattern http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586

Female tunic and bliaut pattern http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html

Online Shops

Angrave designs produces custom orders (including embroidered borders) http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223

The Midgard Seamstress produces custom orders: http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

Dein-LARP-store has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK. http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/

LRP Store sell short and long sleeved tunics: http://www.lrpstore.com/

LARP Fashion sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses: http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php

Velvet glove have several plain tunics http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php

Medieval Merchant stock tunics and dresses: http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/

Chow’s Emporium has tunics http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html

LARP Inn has two tunic styles: http://www.larpinn.co.uk/

StahlGilde sells tunics http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home

Armor

Battle Ready provides quality leather armor for men http://battle-ready.com/home/

Evenlode Studios provides quality and custom leather armor http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html

Idiom Productions provides for custom leather orders http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions