The League costumes

Look and Feel

"The people of the League are city-folk through and through" - No farming or costumes here and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

"In the League wealth is status" - As the Most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

"Everything is on show" - Your costume should and will say something about you.

"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them" - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic" - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg" - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option for women and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that" - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns" - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

Regional Variations

The Bay of Catazarria

These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias”, the setting and period are perfect for Catazarria.

Holberg

Costume in Holberg is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

Temeswar

Temeswar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

Similar nations

Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houpplandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeshwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka. Perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rerely seen in Varushka.

Research

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1450-1500) and generally more towards southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period.

The Borgias

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections.

Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.

Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.

Ever After (1998)

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration.

In detail

Breakdown of each garment worn, typical layers and fabrics for each

links to patterns, shops, traders etc.

Good substitutions for each garment

Specifics

Costuming high, middle and low status character

Men/Women/children in each category?

What you can achieve at different price brackets? (thinking of doing something along the lines of the Odyssey £30 kit challenge maybe Daisy and Jude!)

Hats and outerwear

Examples, materials, patterns etc.

Bibliography

Both an online “would you like to know more!” and a guide to the amazing books you can get on amazon.

Nation specific garment

Possibly – if we can think of something suitable for each nation!