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The Brass Coast offers a chance to create some flamboyant and really expressive costumes. The Freeborn’s attitude to life is all about individuality, passion and luxury, and this is expressed best through their dress. Success is measured in wealth, and what better way to demonstrate that wealth than by wearing it openly? Fine fabrics like silks and brocades are perfect for the Brass Coast, and no Freeborn costume would be complete without plenty of jewellery.  
{{Costume Advice|[[The Brass Coast look and feel]]}}
== Overview ==
This page aims to offer help in creating a Brass Coast costume for those who want it. It provides a list of resources that players looking to create a costume, either purchasing one or making one may find useful. There is no one way to create the perfect costume, but the suggestions on this page will help to produce a great costume for Empire.


“Life is short — let it never be dull!”
The Brass Coast offers a chance to create some flamboyant and really expressive costumes. The Freeborn attitude to life is all about individuality, passion and luxury, and many Freeborn express this through their dress. Success is measured in wealth, and what better way to demonstrate that wealth than by wearing it openly? The Freeborn look is usually one of bright colours, silks, jewels and sumptuousness. Individual style is highly valued and the mundane and common scorned. The Brass Coast lives for dance and music, and the clothing worn there often reflects this. With the flame being the central symbol for the Freeborn, it’s no surprise to find that their clothing is made in brightly coloured layers to convey the impression of the fire within.
The Freeborn abhor the mundane and common. Costumes should be as individual as possible and brightly coloured, layered and ever-changing.


==Fabrics==
===Colour Guide===
The Freeborn look is one of bright colours, silks, jewels and sumptuousness.  
The colour palette is inspired by flame, but it also features other sumptuous colours -such as turquoise, magenta, emerald green and peacock blue. Note the absence of black - reserved for the dead and white - worn only by the very poorest.
Midweight silks and brocades work very well for sumptuous base layers. Most costumes should also feature very light top layers, in fabrics like voiles and chiffons, to create movement; the Brass Coast lives for dance and music and the best costumes express this, even when their wearer is at rest.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Brass_coast_colours.png|width=}}


[[file:shotsilk.jpg|200px]]
==10 Quick Tips ==


Layers of light fabrics over heavier ones, in different or even contrasting colours will give a wonderful range of shades which alter as the wearer moves. For example, layered yellow and orange chiffon scarves over a turquoise silk shirt would create some deep green shades in places.
* Generally, an outfit is likely to consist of trousers, top, a robe of some sort and a headdress.
Another way of creating changing and colourful outfits is to use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_silk ‘shot’] fabrics, also called ‘changeant’. These fabrics change colour as they move and look incredible in flowing robes, scarves and skirts.
* A great way to achieve the richness and the movement in Freeborn style is through costume in multiple layers - working from heavier warm layers as a base and floating fabrics as a top layer.
* To cope with the British climate, fleeces are ideal as linings for more flamboyant fabrics, and light wools can be dressed with metallic brocades or embroidery. Multiple layers of silks are also surprisingly effective at keeping out the cold.
* Bright colours layered together can give a wonderful range of shades which alter as the wearer moves - or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_silk ‘shot’] fabrics, also called ‘changeant’ can look incredible in flowing robes, scarves and skirts.
* Whilst the style and clothing inspirations are Moorish and North African, the colours, beading and embroidery of sari and other fabrics widely available in Asian clothing shops across the UK so these can be a great source of materials. Shalwar Kameez can be a useful base layer.
* Both charity shops and on-line stores can be good sources of Arabic and North African loose tunics and trousers - often in white cotton which will dye well in bright colours.
* To really keep the flowing feel of Freeborn style, try avoiding heavy belts and instead secure layers of clothing with scarves; hanging pouches and scabbards from the shoulder on cords or jewelled chains.
* Integrating the flow of jewellery with the flow of the costume is another strong marker of the Brass Coast, and internet suppliers of belly dancing costume, as well as markets and shops near Asian areas, can be a good place to find long strings of coins, bells and other adornments.
* Try Asian shops for slipper shoes, or look for patterns for making Greek or Roman sandals which lace up the leg - both are common footwear for the Freeborn
* If all this talk of silks and brocades is sounding a little pricey - check out the [[A_guide_to_fabrics_for_kitmaking|fabric pages]] to see how impressive effects can be achieved without spending a fortune


Indian and Pakistani clothing and fabric shops, and charity shops nearby major Asian areas are great places to look for Sari / Saree fabrics, which are usually lightweight and highly decorated, but often reasonably priced. Sari fabric is often beaded or embroidered, with metallic patterns and sequins being popular. These fabrics can be used to make robes and scarves or worn as they are to make simple wrap around garments. Saris worn the traditional Indian way (wrapped around the waist and draped over the shoulder) are not within the brief for the Freeborn and should be avoided.
==Making Guides and Examples==
Folkwear make a range of patterns for North African and Arab style garments which are all perfect for the Brass Coast, for people of any gender.
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/gaza-dress?variant=34353684622  Pattern 101 Gaza Dress]
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/egyptian-shirt?variant=34362136334 Pattern 104 Egyptian Shirt]
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/syrian-dress?variant=34362633998 Pattern 105 Syrian Dress]
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/turkish-coat?variant=34362758222 Pattern 106 Turkish Coat]
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/afghan-nomad-dress?variant=34362988814 Pattern 107 Afgan Nomad Dress]
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/turkish-dancer?variant=34363188046 Pattern 108 Turkish Dancer]
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/119-sarouelles?variant=34869871374 Pattern 119 Sarouelles (Trousers) ]
*[https://www.folkwear.com/products/132-moroccan-burnoose?variant=35085833230 Pattern 132 Moroccan Burnoose]
{{CaptionedImage|file=Folkwearpatterns.jpg|width=400|caption=Folkwear Patterns}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Harem pants.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Harem pants}}
To create loose and flowing trousers any of these patterns work well. Variation can be added by ending the trousers just past the knee or by slitting the leg to reveal jewellery or another layer of colour.  


Leather is considered unappealing for clothing, it’s a heavy material the Freeborn reserve for boots and armour
==Colours==
With the flame being the central symbol for the Freeborn, it’s no surprise to find them most frequently dressed in strong bright yellows, brilliant oranges and every conceivable shade of red as well as gold and silver. Expensive clothing is made in brightly coloured layers to convey the impression of the fire within.
The Freeborn love all bright, vibrant colours, however, and turquoise, magenta, emerald green and peacock blue will all make an appearance in costumes.
Some creativity with colour will make for the best Brass Coast costumes, using a mixed palate of similar tones alongside one or two strongly contrasting colours for a dramatic effect.
Black is a colour reserved for the dead, and should be avoided in your costumes. Similarly, white is only worn by the very poorest in society and should also be avoided.
[[file:Brass_coast_colours.png]]
==Similar nations==
==Inspiration==
The Brass Coast, while primarily a fantasy nation, does draw from Arabic and North African cultures, for example Moorish, Bedouin, Moroccan, Algerian and Tunisian costumes. There are a number of differences between the Freeborn and these real-world cultures, though. Primarily this involves headwear and modesty concerns, and the following are not suitable for the Brass Coast;
*Shemagh, keffiyeh (patterned ‘tea towel’ worn on head) and agal,
*Fez and bandanna.
*All “high” turbans such as the classic Islamic or Sikh turban.
*Everything defined as “sartorial hijab” by wikipedia - burqa, niqab, etc.
Belly-dancing costume is also not encouraged in the Brass Coast, though there are a number of similar options for dance and costume from Egypt and the Middle East which would be perfect. This [http://www.shira.net/costuming/sca-faire.htm SCA guide to belly dancing] details some of the dances and costumes which would work well for the Freeborn. Also try looking at the [http://youtu.be/8eO_g0Rrx_w Persian dance scene] from 'Alexander' for inspiration.
'''Pinterest sites'''
*[http://pinterest.com/laserkatt/empire-sirroc/]
'''Films and TV'''
Some of the films you can look to for inspiration are; [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Last-Legion-Colin-Firth/dp/B000YDAJHM The Last Legion], [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingdom-Heaven-DVD-Orlando-Bloom/dp/B000A896J8/ref=sr_1_2?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343814981&sr=1-2 Kingdom of Heaven] ([http://stungunmoy.deviantart.com/art/Sybilla-Kingdom-of-Heaven-II-190628011?q=gallery%3AStungunMoy%2F12695841&qo=0 cosplay details for Sybilla available here]), [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Prince-Persia-Sands-Time-DVD/dp/B003IHUI0O/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815006&sr=1-1 Prince of Persia] ans [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sinbad-DVD-Elliot-Knight/dp/B008FOM2WW/ref=sr_1_3?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815087&sr=1-3 Sinbad]
Also, look at the Medjai from [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mummy-DVD-Brendan-Fraser/dp/B000092WAW/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815030&sr=1-1 The Mummy] ([http://www.cosplayisland.co.uk/costume/view/51702 cosplay details available here].)
==The Clothes==
Freeborn society is completely gender blind and their clothing reflects this, with men and women wearing much the same clothes and jewellery. Generally, an outfit will consist of trousers, top, a robe of some sort and a head dress, or a robe and head dress alone. Tunics and robes should be belted with fabric sashes, which can be tied and left long and hanging to the front or side. Clothing is usually worn loose with layers of draped material will often be ornate and decorated with shiny metal jewellery, bells, coins and other jingly bits. Jewellery should be considered to be part of this costume rather than an accessory.
Folkwear make a range of patterns for North African and Arab style garments which are all perfect for the Brass Coast, for men and women.
[http://www.folkwear.com/caravan.html Patterns 101, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 119, 132]
[[File:Folkwearpatterns.jpg|400px]]
[[File:Harem pants.jpg|300px|right]]
Men and women's trousers are loose and flowing, and generally gathered into the ankle. They can be full length, or end just past the knee, open at the sides to reveal part or all of the leg and can be of various designs, resembling harem pants, or Indian shalwar trousers.
*[http://www.mimigstyle.com/2010/06/how-to-draft-and-sew-harem-pants.html Making harem pants]
*[http://madamexcostumes.com/newpages/ttcostumes.html#pantaloons Making pantaloons]
*[http://madamexcostumes.com/newpages/ttcostumes.html#pantaloons Making pantaloons]
*[http://www.shira.net/costuming/pants-narrowsalwar.htm Making shalwar trousers]
*[http://www.shira.net/costuming/pants-narrowsalwar.htm Making shalwar trousers]
*[http://youtu.be/Z8OxKJQ6PdU Video instructions for harem pants]
*[http://youtu.be/Z8OxKJQ6PdU Video instructions for harem pants]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2135-costumes.aspx Pattern for shalwar kemeez]


The tunic top is very commonly worn over the trousers, and falls anywhere from the hip to the calf. Again, the Indian shalwar kameez outfit for men and women is a good model to start from.
A simple T-tunic will work well in the Brass Coast, with Freeborn touches achieved by adding decoration, particularly around the neck and keeping this base slim fitting so other layers can flow over it.  
The tunic can be made the same as any other t-tunic, but should be highly decorated around the neck, and slim fitting. Women may wish to make their tunic a 'princess line' style for better fit.
*[[How to - Make a simple tunic]]
*[[How_To_-_Make_a_Bliault|How to make a T-tunic]]
*[http://aminacreations.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Kameez%20patterns Online pattern for a Kameez]
*[http://aminacreations.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Kameez%20patterns Online pattern for a Kameez]
*Simplicity pattern 4528 - currently out of print but available online
*[https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/9071 Simplicity pattern 4528]
 
Closed robes can be worn instead of, or on top of, a tunic, and should be loose and flowing to the ankle. These could have long flowing sleeves, or be sleeveless to show off the tunic underneath. This garment is based on either the traditional kaftan, or the thobe, but should be brightly coloured and highly decorated as in Moorish Spain and North Africa and not the plain white robe worn in the Middle East. Low necklines, slits to knee or hip and short sleeves could all be used in the closed robe to reveal layers underneath.


[[file:closed_robes.jpg|294px]]
There are several different styles of long robe which work well for over layers.
This garment is based on either the traditional kaftan, or the thobe. To give it strong Freeborn flavour  the colours would be bright and slits to knee or hip would reveal layers beneath.
<row-fluid>
<span5>{{CaptionedImage|file=closed_robes.jpg|width=348}}</span5>
<span5>{{CaptionedImage|file=brass_coast_soldier.jpg|width=200}}</span5>
</row-fluid>


A more dress-like version of the tunic is the Anarkali suit, which is a high waisted dress with a full skirt to knee or calf, worn over trousers. A similar garment from Morocco is called the El-keswa. In the film Alexander, the Persian dancers wear a version of this dress, left open below the bust line. and worn with a circle skirt, over trousers.
A more dress-like version of the tunic is the anarkali suit, which is a high waisted dress with a full skirt to knee or calf, worn over trousers. A similar garment from Morocco is called the el-keswa.  


*[http://www.adithisammasews.com/2010/11/anarkali-tutorial-enjoy.html Tutorial for anarkali]
*[http://www.adithisammasews.com/2010/11/anarkali-tutorial-enjoy.html Tutorial for anarkali]
*[http://aminacreations.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/how-to-stitch-anarkali-suits.html Online pattern]
*[http://aminacreations.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/how-to-stitch-anarkali-suits.html Online pattern]
[[file:El-keswa.jpg|200px]] [[file:persian_dancers.jpg|300px]]
<row-fluid>
<span12>{{CaptionedImage|file=El-keswa.jpg|width=249|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=persian_dancers.jpg|width=367|align=left|caption=Image from the film [http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0346491/ Alexander]}}</span12>
</row-fluid>


A Melia is a traditional Tunisian dress/robe, which is simply fabric pinned at the shoulders and either left hanging, or be belted to the body, much like a Roman Stola. This is probably one of the easiest pieces of costume to make, but should be worn over a tunic style top and trousers for Freeborn characters.  
A melia is a traditional Tunisian dress/robe, which is simply fabric pinned at the shoulders and either left hanging or be belted to the body, much like a Roman Stola. The Freeborn are likely to wear it over tunic style top and trousers rather than on its own.
*[http://flavias.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/how-to-make-stola.html How to make a Stola].
*[http://flavias.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/how-to-make-stola.html How to make a stola].
[[file:melia.jpg|400px]][[file:melia2.jpg|210px]]
{{CaptionedImage|file=melia2.jpg|width=210}}


Open robes are another possibility to layer over a tunic, or even another robe and a chance to add another colour and more decoration to your outfit. These can be sleeveless, like long waistcoats and several can be worn at once to increase the layered look. Adding scarves to open robes, and one or more fabric sash belts will finish off the Freeborn look
Waistcoats and open robes are another possibility to layer over a tunic, or even a over a first robe adding yet more colour and decoration.  
[[file:open_robes.jpg|250px]]
{{CaptionedImage|file=open_robes2.jpg|caption=Costume by [https://www.facebook.com/pages/Moot-Point/255667077892385 Moot Point Design]|width=200}}


The preferred Brass Coast headdress is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagelmust tagelmust] (preferably in bright red, orange or yellow rather than blue) or other veils, scarves, and head-wraps. [http://youtu.be/SGvneAtiE_U How to tie a tagelmust video]
===Headwear===
The perfect Brass Coast headdress is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagelmust tagelmust]. Red, orange, or yellow are ideal for the Brass Coast. Tagelmusts in the indigo-dyed shades worn by the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuareg_people Tuareg] people in the real world are '''[[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|inappropriate]]''' at Empire, due to their actual cultural significance. <br>
[http://youtu.be/SGvneAtiE_U How to tie a tagelmust video]


[[file:tagelmust.jpg|200px]]
==Children==
{{CaptionedImage|file=Brass_coast_children.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
Children are an opportunity for parents to show off their wealth, dressing their offspring in traditional Freeborn styles. Children in the Brass Coast are often dressed in scaled down versions of their parents clothes.


Veils are worn by both men and women to make them appear more mysterious and alluring, and to frame the eyes or face attractively. Jewellery is very common with the best pieces, like necklaces, crowns or tiaras, also designed to frame the wearers face or the hands.
For toddlers and babies, simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning they should last for more than one year. Choosing sleeveless and none form fitted top layers like the melia/stola should make several years of wear possible, making fancy trims and embellishments worthwhile.
Ideally scabbards or pouches should hang at the waist by a silk cord that goes over the shoulder. Any tattoos should be highly intricate, henna-style.


===Children===
General tips for costume for children:
Children are an opportunity for parents to show off their wealth, dressing their offspring in traditional Freeborn styles.
* Robes that stop at knee - mid-calf will be less of a trip hazard
* Headgear that can be very simply retied is great
* Avoiding things that can pull around the neck is wise (strings on cloaks/hats on cords/ tabards that don't secure under the arms
* Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth


===Sutannir ===
*[https://neheleniapatterns.com/produkt/kinder-des-mittelalters-mae1215/?lang=en Patterns for medieval children's clothes]
A cross between a professional priest and a party organizer, Sutannir conduct important ceremonies such as the coming of age or a wedding, and see to the spiritual needs of the Freeborn as a whole. Before the ceremony many paint their face and limbs with stylised flames in bright colours and dress in flamboyant costumes.
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's premade items for children]


===Corsairs===
==Suppliers==
They are infamous for their corsairs who operate throughout the bay of Catazar. These daring privateers risk everything ensuring that the Empire's enemies are unable to threaten her shores and earning a fortune in gold in the process. It is a dangerous life but one that perfectly suits the Freeborn passion for high adventure.
===Costume===
*[https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/The_Midgard_Seamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes


===Armour===
===Armour===
Scale is the ideal armour, ideally in a bright golden colour. Chain in the “jannissary” style, particularly the chain helmets, is also great. Small pieces of plate or breastplates are also good especially if ornate and inlaid. Leather armour is common, either magnificently tooled or used to hold pieces of metal armour in place.
* [https://darkbladeuk.co.uk/ Darkblade] has cool leather scale for the Brass Coast.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and props workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.


Armour, whether metal or leather, should have embellished edges and rich decoration, with calligraphy and ornate designs.
Chain mail supplies and finished items:
*http://www.theringlord.com
*https://armchair-armoury.co.uk/
*https://www.thechainmailshop.com/


Golden scale is the ideal armour, worn like mail or else secured with leather.  
Lightweight polyurethane replicas:
*http://www.nortonarmouries.com/


Mail worn in the “jannissary” style and armour reinforced with ornate metal or leather plates are both good.
Make your own:
*[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/armour/leather-scale-armour How to make leather scale armour the easy way!]
*[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/armour/wonderflex-armour And here's one on how to make plate out of wonderflex, ideal for Mage armour]
 
==Inspiration==
The following sections pull together some of the research done by the art department team working on The Brass Coast - feel free to delve in deep as you like


===Weapons===
===Pinterest Sites===
Round (ideally domed) metal shields, highly decorated if possible.
* http://pinterest.com/delvy/empire-brass-coast/
Weapons
* http://pinterest.com/laserkatt/empire-sirroc/


Scimitars are less common than straight swords and axes. The Bhuj, a large heavy single-bladed spear, is the ideal pole-arm. The best quality weapons are intricately etched and engraved. Scimitars are not common, most Freeborn prefer an axe or straight sword. Weapons should ideally be inlaid and decorated with complex designs. The Indian “bhuj” is the favoured pole-arm.
===Films, TV and Costume Pages===
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Last-Legion-Colin-Firth/dp/B000YDAJHM The Last Legion]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingdom-Heaven-DVD-Orlando-Bloom/dp/B000A896J8/ref=sr_1_2?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343814981&sr=1-2 Kingdom of Heaven] ([http://stungunmoy.deviantart.com/art/Sybilla-Kingdom-of-Heaven-II-190628011?q=gallery%3AStungunMoy%2F12695841&qo=0 cosplay details for Sybilla available here])
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Prince-Persia-Sands-Time-DVD/dp/B003IHUI0O/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815006&sr=1-1 Prince of Persia]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sinbad-DVD-Elliot-Knight/dp/B008FOM2WW/ref=sr_1_3?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815087&sr=1-3 Sinbad]
* Also, look at the Medjai from [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mummy-DVD-Brendan-Fraser/dp/B000092WAW/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815030&sr=1-1 The Mummy] ([http://www.cosplayisland.co.uk/costume/view/51702 cosplay details available here].)
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xlJMavnO-g Roxanne's dance] from the movie Alexander


The perfect Freeborn shield is a domed, round shield that is intricately decorated in gold.
===Further Bibliography and Resources===
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Berber-Costumes-Morocco-Marie-Rose-Rabate/dp/2867701856/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1343821764&sr=1-1 Berber Costumes of Morocco, Marie-Rose Rabate]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Moors-Islamic-7th-15th-Centuries-Men-at-arms/dp/1855329646/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1343821837&sr=1-8 The Moors: The Islamic West 7th-15th Centuries AD David Nicolle]


==Bibliography==
{{Brass Coast Links}}
: Both an online “would you like to know more!” and a guide to the amazing books you can get on amazon.


[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:The Brass Coast]]
[[Category:OOC]]

Latest revision as of 22:39, 26 May 2023

This page contains guides written by players that may be of interest in making costume pieces. It is a very early page intended to supplement the The Brass Coast look and feel page, and may have been superceded. Official costume advice is found on the Costume page.

Overview

This page aims to offer help in creating a Brass Coast costume for those who want it. It provides a list of resources that players looking to create a costume, either purchasing one or making one may find useful. There is no one way to create the perfect costume, but the suggestions on this page will help to produce a great costume for Empire.

The Brass Coast offers a chance to create some flamboyant and really expressive costumes. The Freeborn attitude to life is all about individuality, passion and luxury, and many Freeborn express this through their dress. Success is measured in wealth, and what better way to demonstrate that wealth than by wearing it openly? The Freeborn look is usually one of bright colours, silks, jewels and sumptuousness. Individual style is highly valued and the mundane and common scorned. The Brass Coast lives for dance and music, and the clothing worn there often reflects this. With the flame being the central symbol for the Freeborn, it’s no surprise to find that their clothing is made in brightly coloured layers to convey the impression of the fire within.

Colour Guide

The colour palette is inspired by flame, but it also features other sumptuous colours -such as turquoise, magenta, emerald green and peacock blue. Note the absence of black - reserved for the dead and white - worn only by the very poorest.

Brass coast colours.png

10 Quick Tips

  • Generally, an outfit is likely to consist of trousers, top, a robe of some sort and a headdress.
  • A great way to achieve the richness and the movement in Freeborn style is through costume in multiple layers - working from heavier warm layers as a base and floating fabrics as a top layer.
  • To cope with the British climate, fleeces are ideal as linings for more flamboyant fabrics, and light wools can be dressed with metallic brocades or embroidery. Multiple layers of silks are also surprisingly effective at keeping out the cold.
  • Bright colours layered together can give a wonderful range of shades which alter as the wearer moves - or ‘shot’ fabrics, also called ‘changeant’ can look incredible in flowing robes, scarves and skirts.
  • Whilst the style and clothing inspirations are Moorish and North African, the colours, beading and embroidery of sari and other fabrics widely available in Asian clothing shops across the UK so these can be a great source of materials. Shalwar Kameez can be a useful base layer.
  • Both charity shops and on-line stores can be good sources of Arabic and North African loose tunics and trousers - often in white cotton which will dye well in bright colours.
  • To really keep the flowing feel of Freeborn style, try avoiding heavy belts and instead secure layers of clothing with scarves; hanging pouches and scabbards from the shoulder on cords or jewelled chains.
  • Integrating the flow of jewellery with the flow of the costume is another strong marker of the Brass Coast, and internet suppliers of belly dancing costume, as well as markets and shops near Asian areas, can be a good place to find long strings of coins, bells and other adornments.
  • Try Asian shops for slipper shoes, or look for patterns for making Greek or Roman sandals which lace up the leg - both are common footwear for the Freeborn
  • If all this talk of silks and brocades is sounding a little pricey - check out the fabric pages to see how impressive effects can be achieved without spending a fortune

Making Guides and Examples

Folkwear make a range of patterns for North African and Arab style garments which are all perfect for the Brass Coast, for people of any gender.

Folkwearpatterns.jpg
Folkwear Patterns
Harem pants.jpg
Harem pants

To create loose and flowing trousers any of these patterns work well. Variation can be added by ending the trousers just past the knee or by slitting the leg to reveal jewellery or another layer of colour.

A simple T-tunic will work well in the Brass Coast, with Freeborn touches achieved by adding decoration, particularly around the neck and keeping this base slim fitting so other layers can flow over it.

There are several different styles of long robe which work well for over layers. This garment is based on either the traditional kaftan, or the thobe. To give it strong Freeborn flavour the colours would be bright and slits to knee or hip would reveal layers beneath.

Closed robes.jpg
Brass coast soldier.jpg

A more dress-like version of the tunic is the anarkali suit, which is a high waisted dress with a full skirt to knee or calf, worn over trousers. A similar garment from Morocco is called the el-keswa.

El-keswa.jpg
Persian dancers.jpg
Image from the film Alexander

A melia is a traditional Tunisian dress/robe, which is simply fabric pinned at the shoulders and either left hanging or be belted to the body, much like a Roman Stola. The Freeborn are likely to wear it over tunic style top and trousers rather than on its own.

Melia2.jpg

Waistcoats and open robes are another possibility to layer over a tunic, or even a over a first robe adding yet more colour and decoration.

Headwear

The perfect Brass Coast headdress is the tagelmust. Red, orange, or yellow are ideal for the Brass Coast. Tagelmusts in the indigo-dyed shades worn by the Tuareg people in the real world are inappropriate at Empire, due to their actual cultural significance.
How to tie a tagelmust video

Children

Brass coast children.jpg

Children are an opportunity for parents to show off their wealth, dressing their offspring in traditional Freeborn styles. Children in the Brass Coast are often dressed in scaled down versions of their parents clothes.

For toddlers and babies, simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning they should last for more than one year. Choosing sleeveless and none form fitted top layers like the melia/stola should make several years of wear possible, making fancy trims and embellishments worthwhile.

General tips for costume for children:

  • Robes that stop at knee - mid-calf will be less of a trip hazard
  • Headgear that can be very simply retied is great
  • Avoiding things that can pull around the neck is wise (strings on cloaks/hats on cords/ tabards that don't secure under the arms
  • Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth

Suppliers

Costume

Armour

  • Darkblade has cool leather scale for the Brass Coast.
  • Idiom Productions Costume and props workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons.
  • Totally Leathered provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

Chain mail supplies and finished items:

Lightweight polyurethane replicas:

Make your own:

Inspiration

The following sections pull together some of the research done by the art department team working on The Brass Coast - feel free to delve in deep as you like

Pinterest Sites

Films, TV and Costume Pages

Further Bibliography and Resources

Further Reading

Core Brief

Additional Information