The Marches costumes

Revision as of 08:54, 16 July 2012

Look and Feel

The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour. This nation is intended to appeal strongly to re-enactors and particularly to people who re-enact this period, partly because of the brief and style of the nation and partly because of the “low-fantasy” nature of the characters. To avoid “creep” please do not use anything from the Tudor period including later-period doublets. This is outside the scope of the Marches setting.

Feel

Gritty, solid, practical, superstitious, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.

Influences

Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landkeepers).

Materials

Wool, calico, linen, leather.

Colours

Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached cloth. The palette is autumnal and natural dull blues, greys, browns/ rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of the social scale. Wealthier Marchers have deeper, brighter shades.

Similar nations

Dawn The nation needs to contrast with its neighbour Dawn. That nation is Arthurian high romance, the plate is gleaming, the colours glorious, bright and vivid. In the Marches everything should have a grubby, worn, lived in look to it. The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s. While there will be similarities between Dawn and Marches, Marcher clothes should be made from rougher fabrics, in duller colours. The Marches should look far more real and gritty than Dawn, with the colours dimmed and the decoration stripped back. Skirts and doublets should be less sumptuous, with narrower hems and thinner trims.

Higher class costumes will have a lot in common with average Dawn costumes, with richer colours and finer fabrics. Wealthy Marchers should still use a rich autumnal pallet of berry reds, jewel tone blues and greens and deep blacks, as opposed to the sunny and bright colours of the Dawn nobles. Riches should be shown discretely in the Marches, through subtle touches of finer fabrics, in a lining perhaps, or through fancy buttons on an otherwise plain garment, unlike the more obvious Dawnish show with deep fur trims, expensive fabrics and wide, flowing robes and skirts.

Wintermark and Navarr There are also overlaps between the Marches beaters, Wintermark's Steinr and the Navarr. Marcher beaters tend to wear light leather armour and simple, earth tone clothes, much like the Steinr and Navarr. The beaters can be pulled more into the Marches by using later medieval period clothing, like doublets rather than tunics, and accessorising with typical Marcher items, like bullock pouches and long belts. The look should be simple and unadorned, avoiding large amounts of furs, scraps of leather and paints like the Navarr might wear.

Research

Historical inspiration

The Marches is the nation that draws most inspiration from historical costuming, based around the Medieval period of English history. Costumes should strongly evoke this historical period, although strict adherence to historical accuracy isn't required and a blending of styles from the medieval period, along with some fantasy elements is expected. Much of the following information uses re-enactment or historical sources purely to give plenty of easily accessible options for your costumes. In addition, historical terms like braies and houppelande have been used simply to help you find further information on the sort of clothes to buy or make and aren't intended to intimidate the non-reenactor.

All of that said, when researching the styles of the medieval period, re-enactment is a great place to start. The information about re-enactment costumes is everywhere there are lots of excellent photos and drawings to get you stated. Medieval re-enactment, War of the roses and 13th, 14th or 15th Century re-enactment all provide helpful inspiration.

Women's costumes The key women's garments for the marches are kirtles and the cotehardie. Usually a linen shift would be worn underneath a linen or woollen over dress. Tudor style kirtles with a fitted bodice and gathered skirt are not suitable for the Marches.

Men's costumes Marcher men wear a number of variations of a tunic, cotehardie, or more fitted doublet. Later style doublets, with slashing and intricate decoration as worn in the Tudor period are not suitable for the marches. Similarly, slashed 'landschneckt' styles are firmly within the nation of League and shouldn't be worn in the Marches. Doublets and cotes should be worn either with narrow fitting trousers, or hose.

TV and Films Pillars of the Earth, Cadfael, Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V, Blackadder the First, The Hollow Crown

Reenactment groups Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.

Pinterest Pages

Bibliography

The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.
Medieval military costume, Gary Embleton – Very useful book using colour photographs of live models. Goes into detail about everything from 13th Century foot soldiers to 15th Century knights, with sections on underwear, armour, women’s dress and Landsknechts.
Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for men, and for women, by W. Zerkowski and R. Fuhrmann, plus Headwear and Shoes available on the German website. Great books, giving designs for lots of different garments, though few instructions on how to make them. This would be more suitable for an experienced costume maker.

In detail

Women's costumes

Women's dresses for The Marches are long, lean and smooth and laced to fit. Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more usual. As with military clothes, dresses can reflect household livery. 'Parti-coloured' (or split coloured) dresses look very effective. Lara Corset's website gives an excellent overview of all aspects of women's wardrobes in the late 1400s Matilda la Zouche's wardrobe follows the reconstruction of several historically accurate outfits for a broad medieval period. Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of women's wear Medieval Women's dress, High medieval women's dress, The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for women.

Shifts The shift is a simple linen dress made the same way as a kirtle, but cut a little tighter and shorter to be worn as underwear. This style of under dress for women persisted unchanged well into the 18th Century. This sort of dress needs to be made of something that will be comfortable next to the skin, and is breathable - cotton or linen are the best fabrics fit this. Many traders sell very simple dresses that will be suitable for a shift, but these simple dresses are also very easy to make yourself. Patterns for classic T-tunics can be used to make this dress by making a very long tunic with narrow sleeves, though extra panels will be needed in the skirt to allow for movement.

There are a range of historical dresses which suit the Marches. The Kirtle is the basic pull on, t-shaped gown which was worn throughout northern Europe from the dark ages onwards. Later kirtles became more fitted and either button or lace up the front. These are often called cotehardies (there's also a shorter version of the cotehardie which men could wear). These dresses can also lace up the side, or in the back and can be as tight or loose as desired. The Bliaut is a similar dress, the main difference between this and the kirtle is the wide flowing sleeves and the very tight fit, achieved through lacing on both sides of the dress. All three of these dresses are straightforward to make either from patterns or from pattern diagrams. Generally these dresses are made from wool, but heavier weights of linen or cotton are also suitable. The best looking dresses will be achieved by using fairly soft and heavy fabrics, as these create an attractively flowing skirt. These dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to display the shift underneath, or show off a fancy lining. Aprons can be added on top for lower class women as well. Some sources of information and patterns are given below.

Kirtles

The underdress in this pattern Burda Patterns 7977
Burda Patterns 7468
Reconstructing History 018
Authentic Patterns Late Medieval Kirtle
Reconstructing History pattern RH002
Basic pattern instructions
Basic pattern instructions
McCalls Pattern 4490
McCalls Pattern 4491
Butterick Pattern 4827

Cotehardies

Bliaut

Drafting instructions for a Bliaut

The other style of dress worn in the medieval period is an unfitted robe, gathered in at the waist by a belt. This started life as the Houppelande, a large, robe like garment worn by men and women. Women belted this high under the bust and, over time, the burgundian gown evolved from this, with a similar shape but a deep v-neck. These dresses are far less revealing as the fit is looser than the kirtle and similar dresses, and the belt helps to define the waist. The large amount of fabric used in this style of dress makes it better for wealthier characters.

Houppelande

Burgundian gowns

Simplicity 9058
Reconstructing History 007
Houppelande and Burgundian drafting instructions

Men's costumes

The simplest item a Marcher man can wear is the T-tunic, which is a common garment throughout the Empire. Marcher men should stick to belted tunics with long sleeves, either no slits or a single slit in the front and no decoration. These tunics are a simple, loose fitting garment, and are most suitable for the lower classes. The tunic can also be more form fitting, and fasten with lacing or buttons up the front. This type of garment is usually called a cotehardie, and can be any length from high on the thigh, to floor length. A more complex and tailored option is the doublet, which became popular later in the medieval period and featured some distinctive variations, like the puffed shoulder, and the baggy upper arm. Doublets are usually between waist and thigh length. Tunics, cotehardies and doublets are usually made of wool, but a heavier weight of linen will also work. A cotton or linen shirt should be worn underneath cotehardies and doublets. This will help to soak up sweat and stop the woollen garments from being too itchy. Shirts can be worn on their own as an alternative to a tunic, perhaps with a leather jerkin over the top. Marcher leg wear is slim fitting. Trousers are fine, but effort should be made to keep them narrow. Hose are the more historical alternative, and come as split hose, which are two separate legs with or without integral feet, or joined hose which are one piece with a flap at the groin. Split hose should be worn with long braies, which are a mid thigh length, baggy boxer short style garment. Split hose and braies will keep everything important covered, and help to avoid the problem of both finding joined hose to fit, and having hose tear in the crotch.

Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of men's wear High Medieval men's dress, Medieval men's dress, The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for Men.

Shirts

Tunics

Cotehardie

Doublet

Reconstructing History 003

Hose - joined and split

Braies

Reconstructing History 024

Trousers

Something that can be worn over the tunic or doublet, or on its own is the men's Houppelande, also called a Gown. This is a robe like garment that is cut very wide, and can be belted at the waist or worn loose. There are a lot of variations of the gown, as it was popular for most of the medieval period and changed throughout the era. The sleeves can be very large in the middle, but narrow at the shoulder and cuff (called bagged sleeves), narrow all the way down or wide and flowing. For higher status gowns, the sleeves can be split from cuff to shoulder and allowed to hang freely, leaving the arms free. The length varies from on the hip, to floor length.

Houppelande

Unisex items

Most Marchers will wear some sort of headwear. Hoods, coifs, caps and hats all add to the Marcher look.

Coifs

Hoods

Hats and caps

Marchers, being a practical people, have plenty of options for keeping the rain off. Cloaks can be simple half circles, or luxurious full circles. They come with and without hoods, can be decorated by dagging and fastened with pins, buttons or straps.

Cloaks

Shoes

To stick with the classic medieval look for the Marches, a good style of shoe for men and women is the low ankle boot. These are readily available from re-enactment suppliers and with a little skill can also be made at home. An excellent modern substitute is the desert boot. These can be bought in most shoe shops, and online and have the benefits of being cheap and having a waterproof sole. Boots should be made of soft leather or suede and either buckle up the side, or tie or lace up. Moccasin style boots without any tassels make a reasonable substitute for these boots.

Medieval shoe pattern

Children's costumes

Specifics

High status characters Wealthier characters might wear finer robes but wool not silk. Back lacing shows higher status Dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to show off a fancy lining.

Middle status characters

Low status characters Workers might wear sleeveless jerkins and leather trousers. Aprons can be added on top of dresses for lower class women.

Monks Both male and female monks wear traditional plain monks habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark scapula

Marcher Household A prosperous Marcher Household will wear often wear matching livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote afiliation.

Stewards and Electors The head of a Household, a Steward, wear richer colours, but wool not silk.

Beaters Beaters are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.

Landkeepers Some landkeepers wear robes, similar to the monk, but waistcoat-shirt-and-hose, with rolled-up sleeves is a good alternative.

What you can achieve at different price brackets?

Jewellery

Armour

Padded jacks are common for the poor with a harness of plate for wealthier individuals.

Yeomen Poor Yeomen may wear just a plain coloured padded jack or gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier Yeomen have jacks in their Household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it.

Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.

Padded or leather jacks are common for the poor with a harness of plate for richer individuals. Households often wear matching livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation.

Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a Household, albeit perhaps a Household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the Household wear the livery in some way – perhaps as a coat, or perhaps as a simple sash or badge. Stewards of a Household that alies to a more powerful Household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new Households’ colours in some way.

Links

Books

The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs, Gerry Embleton & John Howe,
English Medieval Knight 1400-1500, Christopher Gravett, Osprey Publishing
The Great Warbow, Matthew Strickland & Robert Hardy, Sutton Publishing – probably the best accessible book you can get on the subject.
Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight, David Edge & John Miles Paddock, Saturn Books

Weapons

Shields are uncommon in the Marches, the most common are small metal bucklers when they are used at all. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are good, bollock daggers, axes, falchions, mauls, warhammers, poleaxes and bills.

Shields are not common. Small metal bucklers are sometimes used.

Weapons Bows are common. In hand-to-hand combat Marchers favour bills and other pole-arms. Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, or warhammers, maces or poleaxes.

Heraldry

Books

Standards, Badges & Livery Colours of the Wars of the Roses, Pat McGill & Jonathan Jones, Freezywater Publications
Heraldic Banners of the Wars of the Roses (3 vols), Pat McGill & Thomas Coveney, Frezywater Publications.

Shops

Costume sellers

Sally Green
Medieval Dress Company Clothing and leatherwork
Matuls Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
Revival Clothing
Historic EnterprisesAmerican based costume company. Trades at TORM
Cloak’d and Dagger’d
Sew-mill
Arm Street Medieval and Fantasy clothing from Russia (English language website)

Armourers

Leather items including shoes

Phil Fraser
Re-enactment shoes
Historical Shoes
Historic Shoes German company (English language website)
Ravenswood Leather Items America site. Non-historical leather items.

Fur and Traditional materials

House of de Clifford Ethically sourced furs of all kinds
Candles for All Ages Tallow and Beeswax Candles
Herts Fabrics
Bernie the Bolt

Camping accessories and other bits

Sally Pointer Hats and bits and bobs
Smoke and Fire American company.
Medieval Market German company (English language website) – Clothing, furniture, and other items
Medieval Dress Company Clothing and leatherwork
Matuls Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
Reenactors Shop German company (English language website) Lots of bits and bobs, including camping accessories.
Medieval design 1st -16th century clothing, furniture and other historical products.

Flags, banners and livery badges

Medieval Art and Woodcraft Historical and historically inspired banners, flags and livery badges

Pewter and Cast Goods

Casts from the Past Pewter items including livery badges and some household items
The Quiet Press Historical buckles, brooches and other ornamental metalwork
Billy and Charlie's Finest Quality Pewter Goods American company. Pewter badges and other accessories.
HR-Replikate German company. Jewellery based on archeological finds (English language website)
Lionheart Replicas Pewterwear
Pewter Replicas Pewter badges, household items and livery collars

Wooden items

Douggie the Wood Wooden Furniture
Robin Wood Authentic wood turned historical items
Paul Atkin Bowls and other hand turned items

Tents

Canvas Tents

@@ Line 33: / Line 33: @@
 '''Women's costumes'''
-The key women's garments for the marches are [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+kirtle kirtles], [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+burgundian+gown burgundian gowns] and the [http://images.google.com/images?q=cotehardie cotehardie]. Usually a linen shift would be worn underneath a linen or woollen over dress.
+The key women's garments for the marches are [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+kirtle kirtles] and the [http://images.google.com/images?q=cotehardie cotehardie]. Usually a linen shift would be worn underneath a linen or woollen over dress.
 Tudor style kirtles with a fitted bodice and gathered skirt are not suitable for the Marches.