Dawn costumes - Revision history

Castaras: /* Hoods */

2026-02-05T17:53:25Z

Hoods

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	*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]		*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]
	*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]		*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]
	*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - Multiple head wear items]
	*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History 009 - Multiple women's head wear items]

	===Accessories===		===Accessories===

Castaras: /* Cloaks */ both links dead :(

2026-02-05T17:53:09Z

Cloaks: both links dead :(

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	A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. Try edging or lining your cloak in good fake fur for a really regal look, or adding a pelt around the shoulders (charity shops often won't sell fur coats up front, but store them in their back room and will allow you to make a donation in exchange for taking them away. If they don't have any, leave your details and get them to call you if any are handed in.)		A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. Try edging or lining your cloak in good fake fur for a really regal look, or adding a pelt around the shoulders (charity shops often won't sell fur coats up front, but store them in their back room and will allow you to make a donation in exchange for taking them away. If they don't have any, leave your details and get them to call you if any are handed in.)

	~~http://garbindex.com/cloak/patterns.html~~
	~~http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm~~

	{{CaptionedImage\|file=Hood3.jpg\|width=400\|caption=Costume by [http://www.flickr.com/people/nereida_ballet/ Nereida]}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=Hood3.jpg\|width=400\|caption=Costume by [http://www.flickr.com/people/nereida_ballet/ Nereida]}}

Castaras: /* Hats, crowns and headdresses */

2026-02-05T17:52:41Z

Hats, crowns and headdresses

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	* http://www.kats-hats.co.uk/index.shtml		* http://www.kats-hats.co.uk/index.shtml
	* http://medievalmilliner.blogspot.co.uk/		* http://medievalmilliner.blogspot.co.uk/
	* http://thecostumersmanifesto.com/costumeoldsite/history/100pages/chaperons.htm
	* http://www.virtue.to/articles/reticulated.html		* http://www.virtue.to/articles/reticulated.html

	~~Beautiful living-history standard crowns:http://www.pewterreplicas.com/dept.asp?id=33~~		How to make your own circlets: http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/makingem/Tips/MakingCirclets.htm

	How to make your own:http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/makingem/Tips/MakingCirclets.htm

	===Cloaks===		===Cloaks===

Castaras: /* Cotehardie and Sideless Surcote */

2026-02-05T17:52:11Z

Cotehardie and Sideless Surcote

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	The cotehardie is a close fitting supportive gown, also known as the gothic fitted dress, usually buttoning down the front and the sleeves, and worn with a leather or metal belt around the hips. It's simple in construction, though needs a little fitting. One lovely historical example is the [~~http~~://~~www.~~reconstructinghistory.com/~~articles~~/~~irish~~-~~articles/the-moy-gown-an~~-irish-~~medieval~~-gown~~.html~~ Moy Gown], which has a unique construction pattern for the sleeves, and makes a lovely intermediate to advanced project. You can easily fake the look of a cotehardie with a [~~http~~://~~butterick~~.~~mccall~~.com/~~b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385~~ modern princess seamed dress.] Here's a How To to give you some ideas: [[How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress]]		The cotehardie is a close fitting supportive gown, also known as the gothic fitted dress, usually buttoning down the front and the sleeves, and worn with a leather or metal belt around the hips. It's simple in construction, though needs a little fitting. One lovely historical example is the [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh313-medieval-irish-moy-gown Moy Gown], which has a unique construction pattern for the sleeves, and makes a lovely intermediate to advanced project. You can easily fake the look of a cotehardie with a [https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/12654 modern princess seamed dress.] Here's a How To to give you some ideas: [[How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress]]

	For formal occasions, a great way to dress up a cotehardie is by putting a sideless surcote over the top, ideally in house colours and bearing your heraldry. Make a full length version of the pattern above, either adding lacing down the sides or cutting a little more away to reveal the gown underneath. Usually the belt goes over the cotehardie, under the surcote.		For formal occasions, a great way to dress up a cotehardie is by putting a sideless surcote over the top, ideally in house colours and bearing your heraldry. Make a full length version of the pattern above, either adding lacing down the sides or cutting a little more away to reveal the gown underneath. Usually the belt goes over the cotehardie, under the surcote.

	*[~~http~~://~~www~~.~~simplicity~~.com/~~p-1532-costumes.aspx~~ Simplicity 2573]		*[https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/31076 Simplicity 2573]
	*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/FittingAndConstruction.htm How to make a cotehardie]
	*[http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm How to make a heraldic sideless surcote]

	==Hats, outerwear and accessories==		==Hats, outerwear and accessories==

Castaras: /* Houppelandes and Burgundian gowns */

2026-02-05T17:49:32Z

Houppelandes and Burgundian gowns

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	Houppelandes are great on women, too. It's not the easiest look in the book, but it's very striking. The one in the leftmost picture is velvet lined in fur, which gives it tremendous bulk and body - an alternative would be to line most of it in thick blanket wool, saving your fur or fake fur for the edges.		Houppelandes are great on women, too. It's not the easiest look in the book, but it's very striking. The one in the leftmost picture is velvet lined in fur, which gives it tremendous bulk and body - an alternative would be to line most of it in thick blanket wool, saving your fur or fake fur for the edges.

	*[~~http~~://~~www~~.~~paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]~~		*[https://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/2073 Simplicity 5925]
	*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
	*[http://www.theweebsite.com~~/cotelande~~/patterns~~.html Houppelande drafting]~~
	*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/~~houppelande.html More drafting instructions]~~
	*Simplicity 5925
	*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH005.html Reconstructing History 005]
	*[http://sevenstarwheel.wordpress.com/burgundian-gown-pattern-pieces/ Fantastic resource on 15th Century dresses and headgear, with patterns]		*[http://sevenstarwheel.wordpress.com/burgundian-gown-pattern-pieces/ Fantastic resource on 15th Century dresses and headgear, with patterns]

	The Burgundian gown is a later development of the Houpellande, usually closer-fitting with a deep v neck and a broad belt just under the bust. Stick to the heavy draped versions; later Italianate ones in lighter silk with close fitting sleeves are more suitable for the League.		The Burgundian gown is a later development of the Houpellande, usually closer-fitting with a deep v neck and a broad belt just under the bust. Stick to the heavy draped versions; later Italianate ones in lighter silk with close fitting sleeves are more suitable for the League.

	*Simplicity 9058		*[http://www.james-gang.org/greydove/docs/houpburg.pdf Drafting instructions]
	*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH007.html Reconstructing History 007]
	*[http://www.james-gang.org/greydove/docs/houpburg.pdf ~~More drafting~~ instructions]

	===Cotehardie and Sideless Surcote===		===Cotehardie and Sideless Surcote===

Castaras: /* Fantasy and "historically inspired" gowns */

2026-02-05T17:45:39Z

Fantasy and "historically inspired" gowns

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	The blue dress is made of two contrasting fabrics - a gold brocade and a blue fabric which you could replicate with a richly coloured fine wool, silk or linen. Use Simplicity Pattern 4940 (~~http~~://~~www~~.~~simplicity~~.com/~~p-2201-costumes.aspx~~) view C (without the corselet/vest), and cut your centre front piece and lower sleeves out of the brocade to contrast with the blue. The pattern will give you a slightly thicker band of brocade at the neck, which you could easily trim down, and will sit on your shoulders rather than off (which is much more practical for active wearing). I'd suggest replacing the zip down the back with lacing - it's just as easy and lacing never jams or breaks in a field.		The blue dress is made of two contrasting fabrics - a gold brocade and a blue fabric which you could replicate with a richly coloured fine wool, silk or linen. Use Simplicity Pattern 4940 (https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/4459) view C (without the corselet/vest), and cut your centre front piece and lower sleeves out of the brocade to contrast with the blue. The pattern will give you a slightly thicker band of brocade at the neck, which you could easily trim down, and will sit on your shoulders rather than off (which is much more practical for active wearing). I'd suggest replacing the zip down the back with lacing - it's just as easy and lacing never jams or breaks in a field.

	For the cream dress and the blue cloak, you could use [~~http~~://~~butterick~~.~~mccall~~.com/~~b4377-products-5145.php?page_id=385~~ Butterick 4377], and sew it in a soft silk velvet or a good synthetic stretch velvet. If you use a decent heavy stretch velvet, you could omit the lacing down the back and just wear it as a pullover dress. For a different look you could use silk, lightweight wool or linen - just choose a lush, rich colour. For the neckline, you could cut a piece of brocade to match the curve of your neckline and carefully sew it on by hand, or you could get some fancy trim or ribbon. For the belt, try looking for a charity shop chain link belt, or make one out of a strip of silk and an old buckle, or use some fancy trim. eBay is a great source of trim - for some really splendid beaded trim at very reasonable prices I use [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heritage-Trading/Sewing-Trims-/_i.html?_fsub=2&_sid=47896792&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 this] eBay shop. About 2m would do a great jewelled belt; ~~they also sell shaped pieces designed to go on the necklines of dresses. For~~ the cloak trim, ~~the same ebay shop is good, or~~ you could try searching for damask trim or brocade trim.		For the cream dress and the blue cloak, you could use [https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/8609 Butterick 4377], and sew it in a soft silk velvet or a good synthetic stretch velvet. If you use a decent heavy stretch velvet, you could omit the lacing down the back and just wear it as a pullover dress. For a different look you could use silk, lightweight wool or linen - just choose a lush, rich colour. For the neckline, you could cut a piece of brocade to match the curve of your neckline and carefully sew it on by hand, or you could get some fancy trim or ribbon. For the belt, try looking for a charity shop chain link belt, or make one out of a strip of silk and an old buckle, or use some fancy trim. About 2m would do a great jewelled belt; for the cloak trim, you could try searching for damask trim or brocade trim.
	{{CaptionedImage\|file=eowyn2.jpg\|width=187}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=eowyn2.jpg\|width=187}}

	Lord of the Rings is a great source of inspiration for women's dresses. Simplicity 4940 is a good place to start, as is McCall's ~~4491~~. [http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr alleycatscratch.com] breaks down every costume in the movie, and is a fantastic resource for choosing the right pattern, fabrics, trim and accessories - even if you don't want to exactly duplicate a LotR costume, it's full of useful information. A word of warning - while many of Arwen's gowns are ideal for Dawn, avoid the more East Asian looking ones as they are probably better suited to Urizen. Eowyn's White Gown, Coronation Gown, Green Gown and Victory Gown are all ideal, but many of the others belong in Wintermark or the Marches.		Lord of the Rings is a great source of inspiration for women's dresses. Simplicity 4940 is a good place to start, as is [https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/3425 McCall's M4491]. [http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr alleycatscratch.com] breaks down every costume in the movie, and is a fantastic resource for choosing the right pattern, fabrics, trim and accessories - even if you don't want to exactly duplicate a LotR costume, it's full of useful information. A word of warning - while many of Arwen's gowns are ideal for Dawn, avoid the more East Asian looking ones as they are probably better suited to Urizen. Eowyn's White Gown, Coronation Gown, Green Gown and Victory Gown are all ideal, but many of the others belong in Wintermark or the Marches.

	===Houppelandes and Burgundian gowns ===		===Houppelandes and Burgundian gowns ===

Castaras: /* The Houppelande */

2026-02-05T17:42:01Z

The Houppelande

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	This is a loose robe-like garment which can be knee or ankle length, with a variety of sleeves and necklines, which can be worn belted or loose. It's different from the style above as the waist isn't fitted - a great choice to show off lots and lots of thick and heavy fabric. It has the major advantage that you can just throw it over anything at all underneath and not worry about your under-kit being revealed. However, it really needs to be in fairly heavy cloth to look right, ideally wool, and can get a bit stuffy in hot weather. Team it with a chaperon hat for a really resplendent look!		This is a loose robe-like garment which can be knee or ankle length, with a variety of sleeves and necklines, which can be worn belted or loose. It's different from the style above as the waist isn't fitted - a great choice to show off lots and lots of thick and heavy fabric. It has the major advantage that you can just throw it over anything at all underneath and not worry about your under-kit being revealed. However, it really needs to be in fairly heavy cloth to look right, ideally wool, and can get a bit stuffy in hot weather. Team it with a chaperon hat for a really resplendent look!

	*[https://www.caitlinsclothing.com/Docs/1410ADHouppelande.pdf drafting instructions]		*[https://www.caitlinsclothing.com/Docs/1410ADHouppelande.pdf Houppelande drafting instructions]
	*[https://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/47222 Butterick 5626 (you could make a really fun houppelande out of this!)]		*[https://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/47222 Butterick 5626 (you could make a really fun houppelande out of this!)]

Castaras: /* Reenactment groups */ hooray for one link having a redirect to bookmark

2026-02-05T17:40:50Z

Reenactment groups: hooray for one link having a redirect to bookmark

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	===Reenactment groups===		===Reenactment groups===
	Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.		Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
	*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
	*[https://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/ Buckingham’s Retinue]		*[https://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
	*[~~http~~://~~www~~.companie-of-st-george.ch/~~cms~~/~~?q=en%2FCostume_Guide~~ Company of Saint George]		*[https://companie-of-st-george.ch/publications/clothing-guide-women/ Company of Saint George Women's Clothing Guide]
			*[https://companie-of-st-george.ch/publications/costume-guide/ Company of Saint George Men's Costume Guide]
	*[https://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/ The Medieval Siege Society]		*[https://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/ The Medieval Siege Society]
	*[~~http~~://~~hawken1911~~.~~wixsite~~.com/sthubertsrangers St Hubert's Rangers]		*[https://sites.google.com/view/sthubertsrangers/ St Hubert's Rangers]

	==Men==		==Men==

Castaras: /* The Houppelande */ this one was a bit of a massacre

2026-02-05T17:39:01Z

The Houppelande: this one was a bit of a massacre

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:39, 5 February 2026
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	This is a loose robe-like garment which can be knee or ankle length, with a variety of sleeves and necklines, which can be worn belted or loose. It's different from the style above as the waist isn't fitted - a great choice to show off lots and lots of thick and heavy fabric. It has the major advantage that you can just throw it over anything at all underneath and not worry about your under-kit being revealed. However, it really needs to be in fairly heavy cloth to look right, ideally wool, and can get a bit stuffy in hot weather. Team it with a chaperon hat for a really resplendent look!		This is a loose robe-like garment which can be knee or ankle length, with a variety of sleeves and necklines, which can be worn belted or loose. It's different from the style above as the waist isn't fitted - a great choice to show off lots and lots of thick and heavy fabric. It has the major advantage that you can just throw it over anything at all underneath and not worry about your under-kit being revealed. However, it really needs to be in fairly heavy cloth to look right, ideally wool, and can get a bit stuffy in hot weather. Team it with a chaperon hat for a really resplendent look!

	*[~~http~~://www.~~paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]~~		*[https://www.caitlinsclothing.com/Docs/1410ADHouppelande.pdf drafting instructions]
	*[http://www.chezirene.com/~~articles~~/~~drafthoup~~.~~html How to draft a Houppelande pattern~~]		*[https://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/47222 Butterick 5626 (you could make a really fun houppelande out of this!)]
	*[~~http~~://~~www~~.~~theweebsite~~.com~~/cotelande~~/patterns~~.html Houppelande drafting]~~
	*[http:/~~/www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]~~
	*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b5626-products-13767.php?page_id=874 Butterick 5626 (you could make a really fun houppelande out of this!)]

	==Women==		==Women==

Castaras: /* Robes, gowns and cotehardies */ some links fixed, others gone

2026-02-05T17:35:05Z

Robes, gowns and cotehardies: some links fixed, others gone

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	Patterns:		Patterns:
	*[~~http~~://~~butterick~~.~~mccall~~.com/~~b6844-products-3815.php?page_id=874~~ Butterick 6844]		*[https://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/3227 Butterick 6844]
	*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2235-men-teen-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2235]		*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity 4942 (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]
	*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity ~~4697~~ (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]		*[https://simplicity.com/mccalls/m4745 McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jaime Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
	*[~~http~~://~~www.~~simplicity.com/~~p-2089-men-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2089(this one would need a little adapting - closed sleeves rather than open, but would do a nice over-robe like Boromir's if you make a sleevless version)]~~		*[https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]
	*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745~~-products-7030.php?page_id=493~~ McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jaime Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
	*[~~http~~://~~store.~~reconstructinghistory.com/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie~~.html~~ Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]

	===The Houppelande===		===The Houppelande===